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Class. Strength. Dignity. Reverence.
Stay strong, sista.
Celebrating the Grace and Style of Black Women
Gross's account goes back decades, back to when de la Renta was a mere "Renta." (He only added the noble-sounding "de la" after he arrived in the U.S., explains Gross.) And he details how de la Renta got his start in fashion, a career that blossomed when he met an Estonian-born baroness and two-time divorcée named Aino de Bodisco. De la Renta had little interest in an intimate relationship with the much-older baroness who, says Gross, had "bad skin and wore heavy makeup." But "she was wealthy and well connected," and de la Renta soon found himself living in a free, luxe apartment and commenced an apprenticeship at Balenciaga soon after. The relationship was short-lived. Once he no longer had much use for his "sugar mommy," de la Renta moved on to an affair with someone else—a man—and then his first marriage to Françoise Langlade, the editor of French Vogue at the time. Langlade had been divorced twice and was widely known—much like de la Renta—to be bisexual. But both seemed derive benefit from the marriage, especially Oscar, who suddenly had one of the most influential figures in fashion as his chief promoter.
Langlade passed away in 1983. Oscar didn't remain single for long. Shortly thereafter, he took up with his current wife, Annette, who was married to another man at the time. Leaving her husband for the gay designer wasn't much of an issue for Annette, who would go on to become one of the dominant behind-the-scenes players at the Met. "He could give her the life she wanted," explained Annette's mother to a friend at the time.